Dark Horse 2013

Dark Horse 2013

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Frustration

So it has been a month since I last posted. The last day I posted was the last day that I rock climbed on anything. Plastic, hangboard, door jams, real rock, buildings, etc. It has been a busy month so it has been bearable to take time off. I've been doing a lot of biking and treadmilling and my cardio is really feeling great! I've also been reading lots of different training books to help expand my knowledge of coaching. I also managed to get a 3.6 GPA for my first semester of college!

So this all seems so great and really it is! I think that I needed a month off...but now that month is over. Well, in reality it is over in about 5 days. But now that the holidays are coming to an end and my semester is over...and I am getting pretty sick of not climbing. So I tried to climb today...

...This did not go so well. I climbed fine on V1's and traversing. Even on jug haul 5.10's up in the lead cave nothing hurt. However as soon as I hit a mini jug, I felt searing pain in my ring fingers. On my left ring finger I cannot even hold my weight! It is just limp which is surprising since I am able to make a fist and do open hand moves just fine. I don't even close hand crimp ever! So before I stopped climbing for the day I did a little taping experiment. I found out that I could use mini jugs pain free if I taped both knuckles on my ring fingers. This is leading me to believe that I may have a fracture or sprain of some sort.

Unfortunately, I went to an orthopedist who totally sucked at diagnosing my wrist. However after taking this amount of time off, my wrist is fine. So, whats with the fingers? I just don't get why three and a half weeks have not helped at all. What am I doing wrong?

What is more upsetting is that a hand specialist won't be able to see me for another two weeks. Then they are most likely going to send me to get x-rays/MRI and then I will have to have another appointment maybe one or two weeks after that. Well listen. I took time off and it is winter. The Northeast sucks in the winter and I need climbing to just keep my spirits up! I also would like to compete at Nationals. Not even just compete; I want to go and do well.

Hopefully for the next few weeks I can find strength training methods that don't involve re-injuring my wrist or further injuring my fingers. I also hope that this heals so I can climb soon because I hate the feeling of having baby smooth hands.

No comments:

Post a Comment