So it has been a month since I last posted. The last day I posted was the last day that I rock climbed on anything. Plastic, hangboard, door jams, real rock, buildings, etc. It has been a busy month so it has been bearable to take time off. I've been doing a lot of biking and treadmilling and my cardio is really feeling great! I've also been reading lots of different training books to help expand my knowledge of coaching. I also managed to get a 3.6 GPA for my first semester of college!
So this all seems so great and really it is! I think that I needed a month off...but now that month is over. Well, in reality it is over in about 5 days. But now that the holidays are coming to an end and my semester is over...and I am getting pretty sick of not climbing. So I tried to climb today...
...This did not go so well. I climbed fine on V1's and traversing. Even on jug haul 5.10's up in the lead cave nothing hurt. However as soon as I hit a mini jug, I felt searing pain in my ring fingers. On my left ring finger I cannot even hold my weight! It is just limp which is surprising since I am able to make a fist and do open hand moves just fine. I don't even close hand crimp ever! So before I stopped climbing for the day I did a little taping experiment. I found out that I could use mini jugs pain free if I taped both knuckles on my ring fingers. This is leading me to believe that I may have a fracture or sprain of some sort.
Unfortunately, I went to an orthopedist who totally sucked at diagnosing my wrist. However after taking this amount of time off, my wrist is fine. So, whats with the fingers? I just don't get why three and a half weeks have not helped at all. What am I doing wrong?
What is more upsetting is that a hand specialist won't be able to see me for another two weeks. Then they are most likely going to send me to get x-rays/MRI and then I will have to have another appointment maybe one or two weeks after that. Well listen. I took time off and it is winter. The Northeast sucks in the winter and I need climbing to just keep my spirits up! I also would like to compete at Nationals. Not even just compete; I want to go and do well.
Hopefully for the next few weeks I can find strength training methods that don't involve re-injuring my wrist or further injuring my fingers. I also hope that this heals so I can climb soon because I hate the feeling of having baby smooth hands.
Dark Horse 2013
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Monday, December 5, 2011
Resting Redefined
So I need to take a little hiatus from climbing. I have been involved in the climbing community for 6 years now and I actively climb until I eventually wear out my body and breakdown. Unfortunately, that is not a good climbing tactic. I can't send double digits while being broken!
A lot of my friends joke about how I get hurt every three weeks or so. The unfortunate part about that statement is that it is very true. I am always getting myself hurt. Why? I am not so sure. I think that between my studies, work, and training I eventually work too hard. I don't feel that I am training too hard/not hard enough...everything seems to be going just fine.
However something must be done. Currently I have a weird bump thing on my forearm, a really tight IT Band that I have been working with for 4 months, and two strained a4 pulleys on my ring fingers, one more strained than the other. My realization to this climbing break is due to my poor performance at the dark horse. One of my pulleys was so bad that I could not even climb on crimps. My finger would just blow off. So I of course did not place very well and I think that I needed that. My body needs a change up.
Unlike all of my other breaks due to injuries, I am actually accepting that I need time off and I am staying off the walls for 3 weeks. Instead of climbing, I am going to take up an adult gymnastics class, work on my power in the form of pull ups/weights, work on my endurance in the form of cardio, and throw in a little anaerobic endurance such as crossfit. My body needs a change up. I'm thinking that these exercises will not only help my body, but my climbing as well for when I come back.
It is odd, I am sort of excited to change things up for this month. I have been training hard for the past seven weeks and I am a little burnt out. December pretty much sucks anyways...except for Christmas. I figure why not take the time I need off now so that I can come back strong?
I know that I have the ability to climb double digits. That is my goal through this training along with competing in the ABS/SCS National Championships. I hope that with this rest I'll be able to come back strong and get some time on my double digit projects....I also am so excited to re-learn handstands and cartwheels!!!
A lot of my friends joke about how I get hurt every three weeks or so. The unfortunate part about that statement is that it is very true. I am always getting myself hurt. Why? I am not so sure. I think that between my studies, work, and training I eventually work too hard. I don't feel that I am training too hard/not hard enough...everything seems to be going just fine.
However something must be done. Currently I have a weird bump thing on my forearm, a really tight IT Band that I have been working with for 4 months, and two strained a4 pulleys on my ring fingers, one more strained than the other. My realization to this climbing break is due to my poor performance at the dark horse. One of my pulleys was so bad that I could not even climb on crimps. My finger would just blow off. So I of course did not place very well and I think that I needed that. My body needs a change up.
Unlike all of my other breaks due to injuries, I am actually accepting that I need time off and I am staying off the walls for 3 weeks. Instead of climbing, I am going to take up an adult gymnastics class, work on my power in the form of pull ups/weights, work on my endurance in the form of cardio, and throw in a little anaerobic endurance such as crossfit. My body needs a change up. I'm thinking that these exercises will not only help my body, but my climbing as well for when I come back.
It is odd, I am sort of excited to change things up for this month. I have been training hard for the past seven weeks and I am a little burnt out. December pretty much sucks anyways...except for Christmas. I figure why not take the time I need off now so that I can come back strong?
I know that I have the ability to climb double digits. That is my goal through this training along with competing in the ABS/SCS National Championships. I hope that with this rest I'll be able to come back strong and get some time on my double digit projects....I also am so excited to re-learn handstands and cartwheels!!!
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