Dark Horse 2013

Dark Horse 2013

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Delayed Review of the Nor'easter!

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty
About a month ago the UBC Pro tour had their final stop in Burlington VT...the Nor'easter. This past year was the first time I have competed in the open category and I also decided to compete in all of the pro tour events. I have to say, I look forward to these events and I have a really great time competing in them.

The Nor'easter was a great event. I'm glad I got to compete in it, considering I had surgery just seven days before. The 2 things I like most about these events is the people and the locations. The people and the other athletes are so supportive and the locations are really beautiful. I mean, Central Park isn't really beautiful per-say, but I enjoyed myself in New York.

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty
I had a great time at every stop and got to climb on some really great problems. I do have to say though that the problems are basically the same at every competition, which I felt was a little boring. While watching the 2011 world cups, I noticed that they all have these interesting, technical moves that also incorporate some of the American dynamic style. Throughout my competing in the 2011 pro tour and the Vail world cup, I saw none of that. Now, I love dynamic movements and using all of my strength on the wall. However I also love watching these dynamic, jacked climbers (especially the men) sweat through technical moves. I myself also love think about the climbs and how I could maneuver myself to finish technical problems. I feel as though the American style lacks this and we should all embrace at least a little bit of technicality that goes further than the slab wall.

Overall, I enjoyed the Nor'easter and the problems were still very, very fun to climb. I am glad that everyone got the chance to be on the live video feed as well! I feel that semi-finals should always be on the live feed online. My family and friends love to watch me climb (and I have a huge family). I was really glad that I got to compete in "finals" because I would have never made the top six with my sore legs from post-surgery. The weather for the event turned out to be really great and I had a great time exploring Burlington.

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty
As a climber, I have progressed so much within a year. Last year I wouldn't have complained about competing on straightforward, brute strength climbs. But now I can see why the movement of climbing is so important. It takes comp climbing to the next level and creates more awareness to one's center of gravity at all times. 


I'm psyched for the 2012 UBC Pro Tour to kick off!

1 comment:

  1. Since I am new to the sport....Could you elaborate on "American style" vs non-American style?

    ReplyDelete