Dark Horse 2013

Dark Horse 2013

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Who Needs Hueco= Sent!

Sunday November 14th, Lincoln Woods.
It was the 4th day I had spent sleeping in for 12 hours, sleep that was much needed! I felt good, like I was having a fresh start. Along with the massive amount of sleep, I also received a new pair of 5.10 dragons! I was ready to break those babies in and get some climbs done!

Saturday night my friend Josh calls me begging to go to Pawtuckaway. Now, I love pway, don't get me wrong. But  had unfinished business in Lincoln Woods that needed to be taken care of. First off, I needed to stick the last move on the Executioner (v6). The last time I tried that thing was on an 80 degree day which was very unforgiving. Lastly, I needed to send Who Needs Hueco (v8). I was obsessing over the low percentage dyno and super sucky heel hook and had spent 5 days projecting it. After a week off, I felt ready.

So back to Sunday. I ditched Josh....sorry bud. Got a good sleep and was off! As soon as I stepped into the woods I went over to the Executioner. I laced those dragons up and got on the climb........In like 30 seconds I had topped out the Executioner and just sat there thinking "Okay, I just day flashed/warmed up on my project.....I LOVE the fall!"

Now, Who Needs Hueco. Who needs it right? Why, with this amazing lowball and low percentage dyno I could spend all of my days in the woods with the homeless creepers and be happier than any day in Hueco.........................JUST KIDDING. Anyways, after like 10 go's I finally got the dyno....with a foot dab. 5 more gos and I stuck the dyno....but somehow managed to get pumped out and fall topping out. With fists of rage and a chug of water, I got on it a few more times and sent right before the sun went down! Ohhh so happy!! That thing is done, my first v8 outside! I am glad I sent it because falling on the topout is something my friends would've never let me live down!

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