So a couple of weeks ago I had an interview with the new Northeast climbing magazine called Climberism. I am really psyched about the interview and I have to thank my sponsor Rock On for helping make it all possible.
A link to the interview is here.
Dark Horse 2013
Friday, July 1, 2011
Friday, June 17, 2011
Vail World Cup 2011
So two weeks ago I went to Vail, Colorado for my first Adult Bouldering World Cup!! Actually, it was my first world cup ever. I really feel so accomplished. It just blows my mind how far I have come since last year. Last year at this time I had just placed in Youth Divisionals and had just accepted my invite to Youth Nationals. Then I placed 15th in the Adult Bouldering National Championships this past February! Such a long way considering the past year I had placed 32nd in the Adult bouldering category and 12th in Junior. Wow.
Vail...was amazing. Even though I had gone to Vail to compete in the World Cup, I enjoyed the entire Teva Mountain game scene and made the best out of my three day stay. The view was breathtaking. The vibe was outrageous. The music was so chill and the people were unbelievable! I fit in perfectly. Not to mention you know, the 2011 Bouldering World Cup!
Like I had said before, this was my first World Cup. I had never seen one up close and personal before. I had only seen the highlights from past world cups online. It is very different when you see something on television then in real life. The perspective is entirely different. In reality, I had no idea what to expect. So, I chose to use this competition as a learning experience. It was my third week back from a partially healed finger injury anyway. But, I still gave it my all and came out in 32nd place.
I feel that 32nd is a very good place! I mean, it is low in the ranks but the best part about these competitions is that you can easily isolate your strengths and weaknesses. Besides, being with competitors from around the world, warming up together and having fun while doing it is what these competitions are all about. Oh, and climbing on boulder problems created by world class setters. That is the most amazing thing to ever ask for. How could I be unhappy with 32nd place? I had so much fun! And even though I had a few foot slips and technical problems, the climbs were stunning.
After leaving the Teva Mountain Games, I had a new found respect for the mountainous life I strive to live by. The World Cup also gave me great psych to start training hard again for Nationals. I mean it is very possible for me to do well with this, so why not give it my all?
So thank you Teva Mountain Games for putting on a great weekend of events!
Also, did I mention my high school graduation was the same day as the qualifying round of the world cup? Yeah, I know what you're thinking...I'm glad I chose the climbing too.
Vail...was amazing. Even though I had gone to Vail to compete in the World Cup, I enjoyed the entire Teva Mountain game scene and made the best out of my three day stay. The view was breathtaking. The vibe was outrageous. The music was so chill and the people were unbelievable! I fit in perfectly. Not to mention you know, the 2011 Bouldering World Cup!
Like I had said before, this was my first World Cup. I had never seen one up close and personal before. I had only seen the highlights from past world cups online. It is very different when you see something on television then in real life. The perspective is entirely different. In reality, I had no idea what to expect. So, I chose to use this competition as a learning experience. It was my third week back from a partially healed finger injury anyway. But, I still gave it my all and came out in 32nd place.
I feel that 32nd is a very good place! I mean, it is low in the ranks but the best part about these competitions is that you can easily isolate your strengths and weaknesses. Besides, being with competitors from around the world, warming up together and having fun while doing it is what these competitions are all about. Oh, and climbing on boulder problems created by world class setters. That is the most amazing thing to ever ask for. How could I be unhappy with 32nd place? I had so much fun! And even though I had a few foot slips and technical problems, the climbs were stunning.
After leaving the Teva Mountain Games, I had a new found respect for the mountainous life I strive to live by. The World Cup also gave me great psych to start training hard again for Nationals. I mean it is very possible for me to do well with this, so why not give it my all?
So thank you Teva Mountain Games for putting on a great weekend of events!
Also, did I mention my high school graduation was the same day as the qualifying round of the world cup? Yeah, I know what you're thinking...I'm glad I chose the climbing too.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Coaching
So this year I was the coach of Central Rock Gym's Team Ascension. It was my first year coaching and it has been such a great experience. As our team practices come to a close with Divisionals this weekend, I'd just like to take a moment as reflect on what a great experience this really has been.
During the summer of 2010, I worked incredibly hard to prove that I was qualified for this job. Yes, I am young and yes, I had never coached before. But, I knew the kids and I knew that I was mature enough to do the job right. When we first started the team in September of 2010, I was expecting there to be only about 12 kids....we had 36 kids show up to practice on out first day. Now, I don't know if the right thing was to be nervous at that moment (as I was the only coach at the time), but I was so f***ing psyched!
Jumping right into bouldering season with the kids was a really great time. I learned so much as a coach, climber, and person. I learned how to decipher routes and problems fast so that I could help the kids with beta. I also learned the right way to do moves and the wrong way to do moves, just by watching 36 different body types try the same problems. I never realized how beneficial the problem solving aspect of climbing was until I had this technique under my belt. Now when I compete I can decipher routes in less than 30 seconds, where a year ago it would take me a couple of minutes.
I realized just how great coaching was when I competed in the first of the Dark Horse Series in November 2010. My perspective on competing had completely changed. Since I promoted greatness while coaching, I had to be great not for me, but for them. I was to be professional about competing for them. I was to put on a show as a climber for them and the rest of the crowd. As a competitor, I realized that I was meant to inspire more than climbing as a personally fun sport.
As great as competing is and as much as coaching has helped me with it, nothing will ever come close to the feeling of seeing the climbing team kids reach their goals. I think that I get more excited than them! After coaching someone and watching someone for so long, it just feels amazing when they complete this great feat. It just feels so rewarding when you see hard work paying off. It is very inspiring.
Being able to be immersed in climbing as I am now is really a breathtaking experience. As I would eventually like to meet my own professional climbing goals, there will always be another passion of mine and that is coaching. Nothing will ever live up to how much fun coaching is, and I am so happy to say that I will be coaching Team Ascension next year as well. Ultimately, I am getting my degree in exercise science while coaching at Central Rock Gym so that I have the opportunity to help others reach their goals as I have.
Team Ascension, I'd like to thank you for a wonderful year and I am excited for the years to come! You all have changed my life so completely and I don't ever want to go back. You've inspired me to take climbing to the next level and help others complete their goals. Don't ever forget how great you all are!
During the summer of 2010, I worked incredibly hard to prove that I was qualified for this job. Yes, I am young and yes, I had never coached before. But, I knew the kids and I knew that I was mature enough to do the job right. When we first started the team in September of 2010, I was expecting there to be only about 12 kids....we had 36 kids show up to practice on out first day. Now, I don't know if the right thing was to be nervous at that moment (as I was the only coach at the time), but I was so f***ing psyched!
Jumping right into bouldering season with the kids was a really great time. I learned so much as a coach, climber, and person. I learned how to decipher routes and problems fast so that I could help the kids with beta. I also learned the right way to do moves and the wrong way to do moves, just by watching 36 different body types try the same problems. I never realized how beneficial the problem solving aspect of climbing was until I had this technique under my belt. Now when I compete I can decipher routes in less than 30 seconds, where a year ago it would take me a couple of minutes.
I realized just how great coaching was when I competed in the first of the Dark Horse Series in November 2010. My perspective on competing had completely changed. Since I promoted greatness while coaching, I had to be great not for me, but for them. I was to be professional about competing for them. I was to put on a show as a climber for them and the rest of the crowd. As a competitor, I realized that I was meant to inspire more than climbing as a personally fun sport.
As great as competing is and as much as coaching has helped me with it, nothing will ever come close to the feeling of seeing the climbing team kids reach their goals. I think that I get more excited than them! After coaching someone and watching someone for so long, it just feels amazing when they complete this great feat. It just feels so rewarding when you see hard work paying off. It is very inspiring.
Being able to be immersed in climbing as I am now is really a breathtaking experience. As I would eventually like to meet my own professional climbing goals, there will always be another passion of mine and that is coaching. Nothing will ever live up to how much fun coaching is, and I am so happy to say that I will be coaching Team Ascension next year as well. Ultimately, I am getting my degree in exercise science while coaching at Central Rock Gym so that I have the opportunity to help others reach their goals as I have.
Team Ascension, I'd like to thank you for a wonderful year and I am excited for the years to come! You all have changed my life so completely and I don't ever want to go back. You've inspired me to take climbing to the next level and help others complete their goals. Don't ever forget how great you all are!
Monday, May 23, 2011
Back to Business
After six weeks of painful resting I am finally back in the game! It is now my third week on climbing and I have had no problems with my fingers, heart, etc. etc.
In the past weeks I have seen a cardiologist, an endocrinologist, and a hand specialist. All of my appointments went well and it looks like I'll be in good shape for the upcoming competition and summer season! My finger is still sprained, I had torn my collateral ligament so it is partially healed. Fortunately, with the help of tape, I can climb again!
Unfortunately however, I missed the little window of spring climbing :(
As most of you New Englanders know, this window was very small...it lasted about 2 weekends in April....thanks snow...and rain. My first day back outdoors was a couple of Fridays ago, where I learned the hard way that summer was approaching fast (see pictures below).
After fending off mosquitoes and dying of heat at the same time, I came to the conclusion that a summer climbing checklist needed to be created. This list is based on the things I forgot to bring that one treacherous bouldering day at Farley. So, here is my checklist for the upcoming weeks:
SUMMER CHECKLIST:
1. Bugspray
2. Hair elastic...or just maybe a haircut
3. Brush(es)
4. Chalk!!
5. Shorts
6. Water
7. A climbing rope because sending hard problems is nonexistent during the days of New England summers.
...I guess the only good thing about the summer heat/rain everyday is that I can focus on the upcoming world cup in Vail!!! So psyched!!!!!!!
In the past weeks I have seen a cardiologist, an endocrinologist, and a hand specialist. All of my appointments went well and it looks like I'll be in good shape for the upcoming competition and summer season! My finger is still sprained, I had torn my collateral ligament so it is partially healed. Fortunately, with the help of tape, I can climb again!
Unfortunately however, I missed the little window of spring climbing :(
As most of you New Englanders know, this window was very small...it lasted about 2 weekends in April....thanks snow...and rain. My first day back outdoors was a couple of Fridays ago, where I learned the hard way that summer was approaching fast (see pictures below).
After fending off mosquitoes and dying of heat at the same time, I came to the conclusion that a summer climbing checklist needed to be created. This list is based on the things I forgot to bring that one treacherous bouldering day at Farley. So, here is my checklist for the upcoming weeks:
SUMMER CHECKLIST:
1. Bugspray
2. Hair elastic...or just maybe a haircut
3. Brush(es)
4. Chalk!!
5. Shorts
6. Water
7. A climbing rope because sending hard problems is nonexistent during the days of New England summers.
 |
| Fending off mosquitoes with a sweatshirt and jeans. |
 | |||
| Fending off mosquitoes with a towel. |
...I guess the only good thing about the summer heat/rain everyday is that I can focus on the upcoming world cup in Vail!!! So psyched!!!!!!!
Monday, April 25, 2011
Out Of Commission
So as I had mentioned in my last blog post, I had hurt my finger. Fortunately, it is only a sprain. I have been resting since the Heart of Steel (with the exception of a few climbing excursions that didn't go well with my finger).
So, what...that's like a month of resting?
Let me just say that I don't know how normal people do it. I can't bear to watch anymore t.v. or my brain will explode. I also can't bring myself to go to a regular gym and do regular workouts. It's just so boring! No wonder so many people are obese.
Since I have been resting, I have begun to take more photos! Photography is a great hobby for when I'm injured because I can still enjoy the outdoors and be around climbers...when the sun finally comes out in New England.
So here's some of my recent photos...the last three were taken a couple of months ago but were recently edited:
So, what...that's like a month of resting?
Let me just say that I don't know how normal people do it. I can't bear to watch anymore t.v. or my brain will explode. I also can't bring myself to go to a regular gym and do regular workouts. It's just so boring! No wonder so many people are obese.
Since I have been resting, I have begun to take more photos! Photography is a great hobby for when I'm injured because I can still enjoy the outdoors and be around climbers...when the sun finally comes out in New England.
So here's some of my recent photos...the last three were taken a couple of months ago but were recently edited:
 |
| Derek Jakoboski- Full Throttle v8 |
 | |
| Derek Jakoboski...some problem at Horse Cave in Lincoln Woods |
 |
| Derek Jakoboski- Barbed Wire v9 |
 |
| Derek Jakoboski- Pocket Rocket v8 |
 |
| ...He broke a nail |
 |
| Flannery Shay-Nemirow- Moon Arete v10 |
 |
| Nick Steinwachs...flashed pumped |
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| Sasha Digulian...some highball in Horsetooth |
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Heart of Steel, or a head full of stupidity?
Listen to your heart, that's what they all say. That all seems to work out just fine in movies, but what about in real life?
Yesterday I competed in the Heart Ov Zteel. Overall, I think that the Boston Rock Gym crew is a great job! All of the climbs were phenomenal and the finals were spectacular. I just wish that I had the chance to have fun. See, I have had the worst chain of events. I have had some terribly obscure injuries and obstacles I've had to climb to get where I am now. This past week I have been terribly sick with a sinus cold.....no fun. I thought it would be better by the comp, but I was in terrible shape.
So, why show up? Well I have been thinking about that. It is because I decided to listen to my heart. My heart told me to go climb, go place, get my name out there. But, my body said: fuck you. Every comp I've competed in this year I have gave my all. Yesterday was no different. But, was it a smart idea? I was very sick and because of that by equilibrium was off and I had trouble aiming for holds. Not to mention by body felt 50 lbs heavier! Because of my physical state, I wound up injuring myself. I got my finger stuck in a pocket and hurt it. Luckily, nothing major. At the worst I fractured my knuckle, but it is too early to tell.
Some may say that I'm a fighter. That I did an amazing job despite the fact that I was sick. Others may say that I am stupid. They'll say my ego got to me and turned me into an asshole. Well, to be honest I should not have competed yesterday. I feel ebarrassed that I only grabbed 60 bucks off the wall because I know that I can do better. Yes, I was sick. But that is why I am stupid.
Why try and climb sick??? I have been grappling with that question all day. The fact is, I have been training hard and want to prove it. I climbed sick to prove to myself my love for climbing. I want to prove to myself that I will overcome any circumstance and still be great. And guess what, I proved it. But do I want to be know is the girl who always gets hurt and still makes it in? No! of course not! Even though I feel extremely embarrassed, I also feel at peace. I would have gone insane if I had stayed home on my couch drinking tea. I would have always wondered what may have happened if I gave it a shot.
So do I have a heart of steel or a head full of stupidity? Ehh...I'd love to say I have a heart of steel but I would make the same stupid mistake over again if I had the chance. Hopefully when I compete in the next UBC Pro Tour comp, medical staff will not have to rush to my side.
Yesterday I competed in the Heart Ov Zteel. Overall, I think that the Boston Rock Gym crew is a great job! All of the climbs were phenomenal and the finals were spectacular. I just wish that I had the chance to have fun. See, I have had the worst chain of events. I have had some terribly obscure injuries and obstacles I've had to climb to get where I am now. This past week I have been terribly sick with a sinus cold.....no fun. I thought it would be better by the comp, but I was in terrible shape.
So, why show up? Well I have been thinking about that. It is because I decided to listen to my heart. My heart told me to go climb, go place, get my name out there. But, my body said: fuck you. Every comp I've competed in this year I have gave my all. Yesterday was no different. But, was it a smart idea? I was very sick and because of that by equilibrium was off and I had trouble aiming for holds. Not to mention by body felt 50 lbs heavier! Because of my physical state, I wound up injuring myself. I got my finger stuck in a pocket and hurt it. Luckily, nothing major. At the worst I fractured my knuckle, but it is too early to tell.
Some may say that I'm a fighter. That I did an amazing job despite the fact that I was sick. Others may say that I am stupid. They'll say my ego got to me and turned me into an asshole. Well, to be honest I should not have competed yesterday. I feel ebarrassed that I only grabbed 60 bucks off the wall because I know that I can do better. Yes, I was sick. But that is why I am stupid.
Why try and climb sick??? I have been grappling with that question all day. The fact is, I have been training hard and want to prove it. I climbed sick to prove to myself my love for climbing. I want to prove to myself that I will overcome any circumstance and still be great. And guess what, I proved it. But do I want to be know is the girl who always gets hurt and still makes it in? No! of course not! Even though I feel extremely embarrassed, I also feel at peace. I would have gone insane if I had stayed home on my couch drinking tea. I would have always wondered what may have happened if I gave it a shot.
So do I have a heart of steel or a head full of stupidity? Ehh...I'd love to say I have a heart of steel but I would make the same stupid mistake over again if I had the chance. Hopefully when I compete in the next UBC Pro Tour comp, medical staff will not have to rush to my side.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Boulder!
Recently I took a two week trip to Boulder, CO.....To explain my entire experience there would take forever, but I do want to touch on what was great about being there.
New England tends to suck a lot of ass and I usually feel depressed because of the attitude people have when winter occurs. Actually, I wound up taking almost all of December off due to a lack of motivation. I planned to take this two week trip back in November. I knew that I would need a break from the weather, and I was right! My planning for Colorado consisted of booking flights and booking my Nationals ticket. Beyond that I had planned to stay with my awesome friend Amanda, who lives out in Denver, and to somehow get to Boulder everyday.
(I guess I fit into the climbing community well since most people I meet have the same sort of planning)
The weekend before Nationals in Boulder, I decided to compete in the Dark Horse Championships. There I met and climbed with Sasha Digulian, Natasha Barnes, Tiffany Hensley, and Courtney Sanders. This comp was the first time I have actually climbed with girls that are the same strength as me! I am not dissing any east coast girls out there, by the way. Until this competition I was actually underestimating myself! I had heard of how all of these girls have sent hard climbs outside etc. etc...but I had no idea that I could keep up with them! Tiffany was also a lifesaver and offered for me to stay at her house during my time in Colorado...thanks Tiff!
Boulder, Colorado. I placed 15th in Nationals and met over a hundred new people.....if that's not enough psyche to get you out of a depression then you are not human! The people I met out there were great! I spent every single second enjoying my life and where I was. That is the way life should always be. I climbed every single day...which in total was 11 days on! I climbed in nationals, then went outside, then on the same day trained in a gym, then climbed outside again, again, and again... Oh, not to mention I am now broke because of Whole Foods. Never making that mistake again (but I might because it just tastes so good).
After Tiffany left for Bishop, I was able to crash on the couch of Lesly Ladlad's and stayed with her and Isabel Faus.
Thanks guys!
I'd like to make a big shoutout to everyone I chilled with in Colorado. It was amazing meeting all of you and I hope to see you soon! I am planning a road trip this summer, which will include a 2-3 week stop in Colorado. I also decided to compete in the rest of the UBC Pro Tour comps so if you're there, look out for me!
I'm excited for the weather to get better in New England (please for the love of God) so that I can send some shit outside and also train for these big comps/road trip. So, if you're ever in the area, give me a shout! I'd love to show some of you the climbing out here!
 |
| I've always wanted to take a picture like this... |
(I guess I fit into the climbing community well since most people I meet have the same sort of planning)
The weekend before Nationals in Boulder, I decided to compete in the Dark Horse Championships. There I met and climbed with Sasha Digulian, Natasha Barnes, Tiffany Hensley, and Courtney Sanders. This comp was the first time I have actually climbed with girls that are the same strength as me! I am not dissing any east coast girls out there, by the way. Until this competition I was actually underestimating myself! I had heard of how all of these girls have sent hard climbs outside etc. etc...but I had no idea that I could keep up with them! Tiffany was also a lifesaver and offered for me to stay at her house during my time in Colorado...thanks Tiff!
 |
| Sending Food!! |
After Tiffany left for Bishop, I was able to crash on the couch of Lesly Ladlad's and stayed with her and Isabel Faus.
Thanks guys!
I'd like to make a big shoutout to everyone I chilled with in Colorado. It was amazing meeting all of you and I hope to see you soon! I am planning a road trip this summer, which will include a 2-3 week stop in Colorado. I also decided to compete in the rest of the UBC Pro Tour comps so if you're there, look out for me!
I'm excited for the weather to get better in New England (please for the love of God) so that I can send some shit outside and also train for these big comps/road trip. So, if you're ever in the area, give me a shout! I'd love to show some of you the climbing out here!
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