Resting Redefined

So I need to take a little hiatus from climbing. I have been involved in the climbing community for 6 years now and I actively climb until I eventually wear out my body and breakdown. Unfortunately, that is not a good climbing tactic. I can't send double digits while being broken!

A lot of my friends joke about how I get hurt every three weeks or so. The unfortunate part about that statement is that it is very true. I am always getting myself hurt. Why? I am not so sure. I think that between my studies, work, and training I eventually work too hard. I don't feel that I am training too hard/not hard enough...everything seems to be going just fine.

However something must be done. Currently I have a weird bump thing on my forearm, a really tight IT Band that I have been working with for 4 months, and two strained a4 pulleys on my ring fingers, one more strained than the other. My realization to this climbing break is due to my poor performance at the dark horse. One of my pulleys was so bad that I could not even climb on crimps. My finger would just blow off. So I of course did not place very well and I think that I needed that. My body needs a change up.

Unlike all of my other breaks due to injuries, I am actually accepting that I need time off and I am staying off the walls for 3 weeks. Instead of climbing, I am going to take up an adult gymnastics class, work on my power in the form of pull ups/weights, work on my endurance in the form of cardio, and throw in a little anaerobic endurance such as crossfit. My body needs a change up. I'm thinking that these exercises will not only help my body, but my climbing as well for when I come back.

It is odd, I am sort of excited to change things up for this month. I have been training hard for the past seven weeks and I am a little burnt out. December pretty much sucks anyways...except for Christmas. I figure why not take the time I need off now so that I can come back strong?

I know that I have the ability to climb double digits. That is my goal through this training along with competing in the ABS/SCS National Championships. I hope that with this rest I'll be able to come back strong and get some time on my double digit projects....I also am so excited to re-learn handstands and cartwheels!!!

November Climbing

I've been doing a lot of schooling and climbing this month. My friends Tom and Erica came out from Colorado and I have been spending my weekends climbing with them and others in Farley. During the week I've been going to class, coaching, and training.

I would like to congratulate Tom on sending so many v8-v10's in New England! Especially Speed of Life! That is one beautiful climb and one of the many great feats Tom has had this month. 

My training has been going well and I feel like I'm actually progressing..however it doesn't help when I get seasonal sinus infections. boo. Anyways, I just enjoy training. I enjoy feeling strong and I enjoy anaerobic activity.

My weekends climbing outside have been filled with great weather, eventful sends from others, and uneventful climbing from me. I have sent nothing! But I'm actually not frustrated. It is fun to get outside and throw myself at some hard climbs before I go back to my weekly routine. Unfortunately I have been spending this weekend doing homework (Actually, I am on a homework break right now). I hope that I can get most of it done so that I can go to Great Barrington tomorrow! But If i do not go, I will just do my homework in the sun outside. I never thought that I would skip climbing for schoolwork...

The one semi-eventful thing that has happened to me occurred 2 weeks ago...

WTH is that lump??

I got this giant lump on what I belive is my flexor muscle. It doesn't hurt and I've been climbing on it just fine...although I am a little concerned...Thoughts??

I'm going to see a specialist next week so hopefully it is nothing to be worried about.

Dark Horse #1

Photo Credit: Pat Bagley

As the competition series for youth climbers is in full swing, the first pro competition in the northeast was put on in Metrorock North. I have to say that this was a great competition! I like to compete in the Dark Horses because they are fun and the setters put on a good show. For me, the dynamic problems (that are the majority at these comps) were fun and I came in 1st for the redpoint round.

In finals the climbs were very well set. Nadya, who ultimately placed 1st, crushed the technical Women's 1 problem effortlessly. I wish I could have seen it! But at least i was able to cheer from my chair. I looked at that problem and....yeah that didn't happen. However I have been getting better at technique! But this was just one step ahead of where I am now. The rest of the problems were really good for Women: #2 being a straight forward combination of footwork and strength, and the last 2 being full on dynamic power.

This was a great competition and it is a good checkpoint for me with my training. I have had two successful competitions so far after my heart procedure, so it seems that the problem may be gone for good!

Here is some video shot by Jon Glassberg of the event:

Dark Horse Series Highlights - Competition #1 from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

5.10 Partners with Adidas

Wow, big step for 5.10! I can't wait to see their stuff on a more commercialized scale! I'm psyched to be apart of their team!


To read the article: "Adidas Group to Acquire Outdoor Specialist Five Ten" Click  here.

Fiveten Sponsorship!

My new 5.10 shoes!!

 Ever since I began to wear downturned shoes, fiveten has been my favorite brand. Being sponsored by my favorite brand is a great success for me, and I am proud to say that I am a part of the 5.10 team! I feel like this is a new chapter for me and I am finally getting rewarded for all of the hard work that I've put into climbing. I can't wait to send with these outside!!

Unfortunately, the northeast got hit by an unbelievable nor'easter this weekend and I wasn't able to climb outdoors :(

We got a foot of snow!! I have no idea when my classes will begin again since my entire campus lost power.

I had en epic ride back from Central Rock Gym on Saturday night. My campus is 6 miles down the road, uphill and through 23 lights...it took me an hour to get back to campus. There were no plows on the road and some pretty shitty massholes trying to maneuver their two tons of metal on top of 6 inches of snow. I did a lot of zigzagging action and some shoveling with my window brush to successfully make it back to my hall...where there was no power.

So I stayed warm by shoveling my car out the next morning! Hopefully I will be able to break in my new shoes indoors this week and climb outside next weekend!

I really, really hope that the weather is not like this next weekend...

Nor'easter Video

Check out this sweet video Stonelick made of the Nor'Easter! This pretty much sums up how awesome the weekend was. Great food, weather, people, and climbing!


STONELICK goes to Nor'easter from STONELICK on Vimeo.

Delayed Review of the Nor'easter!

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty

About a month ago the UBC Pro tour had their final stop in Burlington VT...the Nor'easter. This past year was the first time I have competed in the open category and I also decided to compete in all of the pro tour events. I have to say, I look forward to these events and I have a really great time competing in them.

The Nor'easter was a great event. I'm glad I got to compete in it, considering I had surgery just seven days before. The 2 things I like most about these events is the people and the locations. The people and the other athletes are so supportive and the locations are really beautiful. I mean, Central Park isn't really beautiful per-say, but I enjoyed myself in New York.

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty

I had a great time at every stop and got to climb on some really great problems. I do have to say though that the problems are basically the same at every competition, which I felt was a little boring. While watching the 2011 world cups, I noticed that they all have these interesting, technical moves that also incorporate some of the American dynamic style. Throughout my competing in the 2011 pro tour and the Vail world cup, I saw none of that. Now, I love dynamic movements and using all of my strength on the wall. However I also love watching these dynamic, jacked climbers (especially the men) sweat through technical moves. I myself also love think about the climbs and how I could maneuver myself to finish technical problems. I feel as though the American style lacks this and we should all embrace at least a little bit of technicality that goes further than the slab wall.

Overall, I enjoyed the Nor'easter and the problems were still very, very fun to climb. I am glad that everyone got the chance to be on the live video feed as well! I feel that semi-finals should always be on the live feed online. My family and friends love to watch me climb (and I have a huge family). I was really glad that I got to compete in "finals" because I would have never made the top six with my sore legs from post-surgery. The weather for the event turned out to be really great and I had a great time exploring Burlington.

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty

As a climber, I have progressed so much within a year. Last year I wouldn't have complained about competing on straightforward, brute strength climbs. But now I can see why the movement of climbing is so important. It takes comp climbing to the next level and creates more awareness to one's center of gravity at all times. 


I'm psyched for the 2012 UBC Pro Tour to kick off!