Dark Horse 2013

Dark Horse 2013

Monday, October 31, 2011

Fiveten Sponsorship!


My new 5.10 shoes!!

 Ever since I began to wear downturned shoes, fiveten has been my favorite brand. Being sponsored by my favorite brand is a great success for me, and I am proud to say that I am a part of the 5.10 team! I feel like this is a new chapter for me and I am finally getting rewarded for all of the hard work that I've put into climbing. I can't wait to send with these outside!!

Unfortunately, the northeast got hit by an unbelievable nor'easter this weekend and I wasn't able to climb outdoors :(

We got a foot of snow!! I have no idea when my classes will begin again since my entire campus lost power.

I had en epic ride back from Central Rock Gym on Saturday night. My campus is 6 miles down the road, uphill and through 23 lights...it took me an hour to get back to campus. There were no plows on the road and some pretty shitty massholes trying to maneuver their two tons of metal on top of 6 inches of snow. I did a lot of zigzagging action and some shoveling with my window brush to successfully make it back to my hall...where there was no power.


So I stayed warm by shoveling my car out the next morning! Hopefully I will be able to break in my new shoes indoors this week and climb outside next weekend!

I really, really hope that the weather is not like this next weekend...

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Nor'easter Video

Check out this sweet video Stonelick made of the Nor'Easter! This pretty much sums up how awesome the weekend was. Great food, weather, people, and climbing!


STONELICK goes to Nor'easter from STONELICK on Vimeo.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Delayed Review of the Nor'easter!

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty
About a month ago the UBC Pro tour had their final stop in Burlington VT...the Nor'easter. This past year was the first time I have competed in the open category and I also decided to compete in all of the pro tour events. I have to say, I look forward to these events and I have a really great time competing in them.

The Nor'easter was a great event. I'm glad I got to compete in it, considering I had surgery just seven days before. The 2 things I like most about these events is the people and the locations. The people and the other athletes are so supportive and the locations are really beautiful. I mean, Central Park isn't really beautiful per-say, but I enjoyed myself in New York.

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty
I had a great time at every stop and got to climb on some really great problems. I do have to say though that the problems are basically the same at every competition, which I felt was a little boring. While watching the 2011 world cups, I noticed that they all have these interesting, technical moves that also incorporate some of the American dynamic style. Throughout my competing in the 2011 pro tour and the Vail world cup, I saw none of that. Now, I love dynamic movements and using all of my strength on the wall. However I also love watching these dynamic, jacked climbers (especially the men) sweat through technical moves. I myself also love think about the climbs and how I could maneuver myself to finish technical problems. I feel as though the American style lacks this and we should all embrace at least a little bit of technicality that goes further than the slab wall.

Overall, I enjoyed the Nor'easter and the problems were still very, very fun to climb. I am glad that everyone got the chance to be on the live video feed as well! I feel that semi-finals should always be on the live feed online. My family and friends love to watch me climb (and I have a huge family). I was really glad that I got to compete in "finals" because I would have never made the top six with my sore legs from post-surgery. The weather for the event turned out to be really great and I had a great time exploring Burlington.

Photo Cred: Frances Beatty
As a climber, I have progressed so much within a year. Last year I wouldn't have complained about competing on straightforward, brute strength climbs. But now I can see why the movement of climbing is so important. It takes comp climbing to the next level and creates more awareness to one's center of gravity at all times. 


I'm psyched for the 2012 UBC Pro Tour to kick off!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Heart Procedure

So a week before the Nor'easter I had a procedure done a Boston Children's Hospital called catheter ablation. If anyone remembers, I had to go to the hospital during Nationals for a type of heart palpitation called SVT (supraventricular tachycardia). During SVT, my heart races at 260bpm and I sometimes can't stop it myself. This is scary, so I went to a cardiologist, then a cardiac surgeon. What a catheter ablation does is effectively eliminate my SVT by putting catheters in my thighs and bringing them through main arteries to my heart. There,they figure out where the SVT is coming from and burn off fibers to eliminate it.

This procedure was totally voluntary; I could live with SVT if I wanted to. But I really don't want to be worrying about my heart when I'm climbing. When I went in for my procedure, I was the second case of the day, meaning I had to wait a billion hours for the first case to be done. During that time I walked around the hospital. It was really a humbling day for me, seeing so many sick kids, kids with cancer, heart conditions, and many other conditions. What struck me however was how happy they all were. Even though they were all suffering from some illness, they were all enjoying the life that they had.

The one that stuck me the most was this little girl who was in heart surgery. She was having a catheter ablation like me, but this was her 31st time getting an ablation. I talked with her mother in the waiting room and she told me that her child was born with a defective valve in her heart. As an infant, the valve was reconstructed with tissue, which can be accepted by the heart and the heart can regain strength/grow. In her case, the heart kept rejecting the tissue and she has to keep going into surgery to getting the tissue repaired. In total, this 2 year old (whose birthday was the day after her procedure) has had 31 catheter ablations and 3 open heart surgeries.

Shortly after we had talked, a nurse came in and told the little girls mother that there were complications with the ablation and her child was in the ICU with fluid filling up and into her lungs. Now, I felt terrible. Here is me, a very healthy adult, getting a voluntary catheter ablation done where as this little girl has no choice but risk the procedure. That moment was incredibly humbling for me and I will remember it forever. I hope that girl was able to make it to her birthday.

Overall, I went into surgery at 12:30 and it was very well. My doctor said that there was a 90% chance that they fully ablated my SVT and that I should never get it again in my entire life. Along with that good news, the doctor also told me that it wold be safe to compete in the Nor'easter, I just would be a little sore. I also entered myself into a study so during the ablation they could use other tools such as an ultrasound hooked up to a catheter instead of an x-ray to reduce radiation. I had under a minute of radiation during my entire 2 and a half hour procedure! I also got a neat picture that the ultrasound constructed/a picture they used during my procedure. (it is below)

A week later, I am feeling much better, competed decently and now I am at the tail end of my recovery. I'm excited that I got the procedure done just in time for the fall season!

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

New Avenues of Climbing

So for the past few weeks I've just been enjoying the sport of climbing. I've been climbing a lot of moderately easy problems and then projecting some v8's and v9's. I've just been enjoying to climb! I have been going outdoors and doing a lot of v3's and v4's. Just whatever looks fun. I've also been focusing a lot on my technique. Every easy problem I get on I have been doing very slow and controlled. Even in the gym, I've been going and just doing easy problems and trying to better understand how my body should move. It's been a great learning experience and I really owe it to my good friend Sydney for making me realize that my technique totally blows.

This past summer was great. I worked and climbed with Syd and it was just a really, really fun time. I got back into ropes (somewhat) and learned how to actually toe hook. I'm really excited for the fall season to come!

I've also been exploring "new avenues" of climbing....such as chair bouldering! I have not been able to "send" the folding chair problem until yesterday. I'm happy my ascent was caught on video...but I cannot upload it. So find it on my facebook!

Monday, September 5, 2011

Summer 2011

So obviously I haven't blogged in awhile. There here been so many things this summer that I wished I blogged about but I just didn't have the time to sit down and write about it all. But, my summer was great and it was full of adventure. I competed in the Vail World Cup, competed in the EMS Pro, coached at Youth Nationals, and spent a lot of time working climbing summer camps, climbing, being injured, and just enjoying my summer.

I wish I could explain all of my adventures in detail but I'm afraid that would turn into a friggin novel and nobody wants to read that. So, I have condensed my summer into photographs! Here is what I have been doing this summer instead of blogging: (not in chronological order)

One of the team kids drew a picture of me competing at the World Cup (the only picture I can find of the event)

I'm an exercise science major


Giant peach we saw while driving down to Georgia

I drove a lot this summer. This was a sunrise in Virginia
 
The Book of Insults and Comebacks
My two favorite quotes in the book


Team Ascension goes bouldering!

Nasty flapper
I graduated.


Designed some team shoes!

Again, designed some shoes

Dragons broke :(

Bouldering with Taylor Launter in the in the Dacks

EMS Pro

Me stumped at the EMS Pro...gotta work on technical problems

Youth Nationals! Team Ascension did very well

Ice cream and roller coasters in Texas

Graduated, finally.
My new room!
My first place photography setup


Friday, July 1, 2011

An Interview With Climberism

So a couple of weeks ago I had an interview with the new Northeast climbing magazine called Climberism. I am really psyched about the interview and I have to thank my sponsor Rock On for helping make it all possible.

A link to the interview is here.