Dark Horse 2013

Dark Horse 2013

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Who Needs Hueco= Sent!

Sunday November 14th, Lincoln Woods.
It was the 4th day I had spent sleeping in for 12 hours, sleep that was much needed! I felt good, like I was having a fresh start. Along with the massive amount of sleep, I also received a new pair of 5.10 dragons! I was ready to break those babies in and get some climbs done!

Saturday night my friend Josh calls me begging to go to Pawtuckaway. Now, I love pway, don't get me wrong. But  had unfinished business in Lincoln Woods that needed to be taken care of. First off, I needed to stick the last move on the Executioner (v6). The last time I tried that thing was on an 80 degree day which was very unforgiving. Lastly, I needed to send Who Needs Hueco (v8). I was obsessing over the low percentage dyno and super sucky heel hook and had spent 5 days projecting it. After a week off, I felt ready.

So back to Sunday. I ditched Josh....sorry bud. Got a good sleep and was off! As soon as I stepped into the woods I went over to the Executioner. I laced those dragons up and got on the climb........In like 30 seconds I had topped out the Executioner and just sat there thinking "Okay, I just day flashed/warmed up on my project.....I LOVE the fall!"

Now, Who Needs Hueco. Who needs it right? Why, with this amazing lowball and low percentage dyno I could spend all of my days in the woods with the homeless creepers and be happier than any day in Hueco.........................JUST KIDDING. Anyways, after like 10 go's I finally got the dyno....with a foot dab. 5 more gos and I stuck the dyno....but somehow managed to get pumped out and fall topping out. With fists of rage and a chug of water, I got on it a few more times and sent right before the sun went down! Ohhh so happy!! That thing is done, my first v8 outside! I am glad I sent it because falling on the topout is something my friends would've never let me live down!

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Cheater Cheater Pumpkin Eater

So I went to the Dark Horse competition Metrorock threw yesterday...before I go on let me just say that it was a pretty sweet comp! Props to the setters and to all of the Metrorock crew who made it a great show!

Now as most of you know, most climbing competitions have a redpoint format. In this format you are to mark your falls and when you finish, you must get two signatures as proof that you did the climb. So basically it is the honors system. It seems as though this would work out but, if a kid is offered the chance to win 50 bucks...things can get a bit crazy. Yesterday I saw multiple people cheat; whether it was putting down fake signatures on climbs that they didn't do or not marking their attempts. Because of this nonsense, kids that actually put an effort into competing in qualifiers while being truthful did not gain their time in the spotlight.

TO ALL THOSE WHO MAY HAVE CHEATED: Let me just remind you that this is a local rock climbing competition, not the NFL aired on TV. It is one little competition that is going to mean nothing in the long run. Climbing is just taking off and there is basically nothing to gain from trying to win in a junior finals competition like this. So, what, you win 50 bucks? Well that just paid for your competition fee and maybe a couple of cliff bars. If you want to win that money so bad, go shovel snow for some elderly neighbors. That way you gain the strength you didn't have to actually qualify and you make money at the same time.

Props to anyone who didn't cheat; that is what is going to move this sport in the right direction!

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Black and White Photography

So I've been really busy lately. Recently, all of my time has been dedicated to climbing, coaching, and photography. I have been in the dark room for only about 10 hrs and had only got about 4 good developed photos. Along with those four I have about 10 crappy ones. Instead of just throwing the crappy photo away, I've decided to "recycle" it and use the photo to experiment. Here's the results of some of my "experiments".....


Black and White faded
Black and White with marker

Black and White scratched

 All of these photos were taken in black and white with 400speed film and developed by none other than me......more to come!